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Classification of Raw Siik 

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Classification of Raw Silk 
By Mechanical Tests 



Giving Rules Governing the Operation 
of the Gauge Reel and Cohesion Machine 
as Developed by Warren P. Seem 



Copyright 10 W by 

SILK PUBLISHING COMPANY 



Preface 



THE purpose of this pamphlet is to phicc at the disposal of those 
adopting the Gauge Reel and Cohesion Machine for the 
measurement of Evenness, Cleanness and Cohesion, a set of 
rules and tables with which to determine the relative value of each 
quality, reduce same to a common value and show its application 
in the classification of raw silk. I desire to acknowledge the courtesy 
of the Klots Throwing Co., in the development of the Gauges and 
the Schwarzenbach Huber Co., in the development of the Cohesion 
Machine, at whose expense and direction these tests were brought 
to the present stage of perfection in the interest of and for the benefit 
of the silk trade of the United States. 

The author has been dulv authorized to perfect the machines 
and place them on the market at his own expense. This pamphlet 
is furnished free to those purchasing a Cohesion Machine or a set 
of Gauges. As numerous calls have been received for these tables 
and rules, the author is obliged to ask a remittance of $1.00 per copy 
from those not ordering machines so as to cover this initial expense 
and provide funds for the standardization of tests. 

Warren P. Seem. 
Altoona, Penna., May, 1919. '" " 



(e)CI.A515937 



4 

M 13 1919 






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Classification of Raw Silk 



Evenness 

Evenness of the cloth is in a direct relation to the num- 
ber of fine and coarse threads found in a fixed yardage as 
I propose to show by the graphic description following: 



- - - »...!...■■■■£■■■■■..■■>■■■■■!■.■■■■■■■■■■■■■:■■■■ 



FIG. 1. 

The sketch shows the fine and coarse threads woven as 
the filling, single, in the proportion of 5 fine to 1 coarse, 
with 3 regular size threads between, to present a gooa 
illustration. As the purpose of the sketch is to show the 
relation of fine and coarse threads to the evenness of the 
cloth, the frequency in which the regular threads occur is 
immaterial and is therefore not given in the same propor- 
tion as they appear in the test as that would make the 
sketch too large. Each square represents the cross sec- 
tion of a thread, the fine thread to represent 10 deniers. 
the coarse 20 deniers. the regular size 15 deniers. 

It will be observed that where the coarse sizes appear 
the unevenness is worse but we cannot view the increase in 
the thickness of the cloth from the thin part made by the 
fine thread but must view it from its average thickness 
made by the regular size thread; a fine thread makes the 
cloth thin and weak, whilst a coarse thread makes the 
cloth thick, and when twisted is dull in shade, or causes 
streakedness. A cloth to be even must lack both the ex- 
treme fine and coarse threads; viewing them both from the 
average thickness of the cloth, the one is as serious as the 
other, therefore it will be observed that the less fine and 
coarse threads there are the evener the cloth and the more 
fine and coarse appear the more uneven the cloth. 

In throwing Organzine when two threads are doubled 
together of the proportion 1 to V/,, even with the most even 
doubling, the coarse size will wind around the fine and 
give the thread a corkscrewed appearance; the greater the 
difference the more marked will be the corkscrew. The 
very fine threads, however, present another condition and 
that is they overstretch and do not contract the same as 
the regular size and make a bad corkscrew, therefore again 
we have the same relative condition and the evenness of 
the Organzine is in proportion to the number of fine threads 
found in the raw thread. The fine, in addition to making 
the threads thinner and corkscrewed, also makes the 
thread 33 per cent, weaker, that is the fine thread gen- 
erally breaks 33 per cent, lower than the combined strength 
of both threads of average size. The coarse thread twists 
up a duller shade, causes streakedness and gets stuck and 
breaks in the reed when using a fine reed. 

Can the evenness be determined by the ecart or spring of 
sizing skeins? No, as the short fine and coarse even up. 
Can the relative evenness be determined by the weight 
total of the sizing skeins above and below the average 
and their aggregate weight be compared with that of the 
same number of skeins of average weight or anj' other 
mathematical computation from the sizing? No, as the 
more short uneven lengths there are the more they even 
up as the following illustration shows. 

A lot of Shinshiu No. 1 showed on sixty sizings. skeins of 
225 metres a range of from ten to sixteen deniers or a 
spring of six deniers. A Gauge test showed on 300,000 
yards: 

135 Very Fine threads under 6 deniers 
315 Fine threads under 10 deniers 
210 Coarse threads over 20 deniers 

One of the most uneven silks ever tested. 

Here is the situation: when the fine and coarse threads 
are very few, say twenty to every 300.000 yards, then they 
come only once on the average in every 15.000 yards and 
generally get into one sizing and give a false relative 
value and when they are many they get so close together 
that they average up with the coarse and again give a false 
relative value. 

In valuing evenness we must remember first that it is 
only the extremes that count in working results and the 
quality of cloth. A very fine thread which always breaks 



either in throwing or weaving is just as serious from a 
working point of view if only one or two inches long as 
when 100 inches long. 100 very fine are 100 times worse 
than one very fine. Take the fine ranging from six to ten 
deniers on a 13/15 denier thread and the coarse over 
twenty deniers are the ones that pass through and get 
into the cloth and cause the unevenness that becomes 
noticeable and lowers the quality of the fabric. 

In valuing evenness we need consider only the threads 
one-third under and over the average size and our test 
for evenness must be one that will show^ this truly in 
the easiest, simplest and quickest way. The fine and 
coarse threads average between five inches and twenty- 
five yards. One fine or coarse streak five inches long 
would not be as bad as if it was twenty-five yards long, 
but 180 fine streaks five inches long or the equivalent 
of the twenty-five yards length would be decidedly worse 
that the one spot twenty-five yards long, so also would 
600 streaks in fifteen yards of cloth be much worse than 
thirty streaks of the same average length. 

The point I desire to make is that unevenness is in 
proportion to the number of very fine, fine and coarse 
threads regardless of their length and that a test for 
evenness must show these three conditions regardless of 
their length, which cannot be done with sizing skeins no 
matter what length they are reeled. A number of Japanese 
Inspectors were approached on the uniformity idea shortly 
after the several articles were published and they said 
that they could meet the uniformity idea with No. 1 
stock and according to the results we have had recently 
they appeared to have accomplished it very well, indeed, 
much to our regret. 

Is then the practice of judging the evenness by the 
spring faulty and this custom that has been in vogue for 
years without any merit? No, when the fine and coarse 
threads are few they come so far apart that rarely more 
than one fine or coarse gets into one sizing skein, and 
they either increase or decrease the weight of same as the 
case may be; then the spring is a true indicator of even- 
ness. Experienced inspectors never used it as a definite 
method of judging evenness, only as a sign or an assist- 
ance to the inspection. I have found it holds true only 
in inspecting XX and XXX silk and when the stock is 
under these two gi-ades then the fine and coarse threads 
come frequently enough to even up, even on 225 meter 
sizings. and no dependence can be placed on same. 

Should the same tables for evenness be used on coarse 
sizes as on fine? No, as it is easier to reel a coarse size 
evener than a fine size as the following example shows: 
We will assume that a cocoon fibre average 21/2 deniers; 
a 11/13 denier would then be the product of 5 cocoons 
and the running out of one fibre would affect the size 
2,5 -^ 12.5 or 20 per cent. On a 25 denier it would affect 
the size 2.5 -^ 25 or but 10 per cent; a 7 denier 2.5 -h 7 
or 36 per cent. A tabulation of the following tests shows 
that as the sizes get coarser the evenness becomes better. 

8 Lots 16/18 Very fine Pine 63 Coarse 11 

23 Lots 18/20 Very fine Fine 64 Coarse 18 

14 Lots 24/26 Very fine Pine 30 Coarse 4 

5 Lots 28/30 Very fine Fine 12 Coarse 1 

Upon the basis of this information and a summary of 
a great number of lots on the various sizes I have divided 
the evenness tables into 3 divisions, thus: 



11 to 16 deniers 
17 to 22 deniers 
23 to 28 deniers and over 



7 points = 1% 
5 points = 1% 
3 points ^ 1% 



Very fine to represent 7 deniers and under on all sizes, 
but they are to be increased as follows: 

11 to 16 deniers x 4 
17 to 22 deniers x 5 
23 deniers and over x 6 

The evenness table to be as follows: 



11/16 
17/22 
23/28 



= 100% 
828 = 40% 

= 100% 
368 = 40% 

— 100% 
276 = 40% 



Method of Determining Evenness by Gauge 

During the development of the Gauges, before I had 
the diameter of raw silk as given by Rosenzweig, it became 
necessary to know at what opening of the Gauges different 
sizes of silk should be tested; this I determined by taking 
10 threads from 10 different bobbins and drawing about 
20 yards rapidly through the Gauge by hand and shitting 
the thread to various openings of it until I obtained a 
distinct draw on the thread. I then averaged up this 
result and tested the silk at the average size as determined 
by method named. During the translation of the French 
1904 edition of Serivalor in 1910, I discovered the diameter 
of raw silk as given by Rosenzweig, and set the Gauges 
accordingly and was surprised to find that we agreed 
within one denier. 

During these tests I discovered that Cantons gave the 
same draw as hard natured Japans on a size about 1'/, 
deniers coarser, and that Japan with a strawy hand gave 
the same draw at from 1 to 2 deniers coarser. The filling 
required on this nature thread was found to be from 10 
to 12 per cent, less, which confirmed the result obtained 
by the Gauges. I now use on Cantons a 16 Gauge for a 
14 silk and strawy Japan a 15 Gauge for a 14 silk. On 
the Japan the difference in results are so close that there 
is no need for being over critical on this point, as there is 
always some doubt as to the average size of the raw tested. 
As the thread flattens out somewhat in going through the 
Gauges, extreme accuracy is not required as to the Gauge 
number. 

It can readily be understood how coarse sizes choke 
up in the Gauges and break down the thread, but as to 
the fine and very fine, it generally requires a practical 
demonstration to convince testers that they actually do 
catch the fine threads. A fine thread is the result of allow- 
ing one or more cocoons to run out; then when two or 
more cocoon fibres are added, by a cast on the running 
thread, the diameter is increased beyond the average 
size of the raw which catches and breaks down the thread; 
as fine threads are due to carelessness of the reeler, that 
same carelessness also causes many other defects, all of 
which catch and show up the fine thread. The fine end 
is not, however, a direct catch of the Gauges, as other 
defects, but must be looked for on the reel or take-up 
side ot Gauge. 

Originally it was planned to get the fine threads by 
putting an adjustable tension on the paying-off bobbin, 
regulating it according to the size of the thread, but this 
was found unnecessary, as the per cent, of fine threads 
not recorded in a test was made under 1 per cent.; besides 
as the tester does not tie out all of the fine but just 
enough to get a thread strong enough to tie up to, there 
was a question of doubt even to the 1 per cent, error 
shown. Originally we counted the very fine as 50 per 
cent, under average size and the fine as 33 per cent, under 
average size. Skilled silk workers judged this relation 
of evenness by feel and sight, but in teaching learners a 
definite method became necessary, which was accomplished 
by tieing a knot on thread thus; 



cent, between double the result of a 50 centimetre thread 
single; the thread was then wrapped once around the 
post and this result on even silk was exactly double that 
of the 50 centimetre length single; a test conducted on 
very uneven silk showed but a variation of 3 per cent.; 
as the 3 per cent, variation was undoubtedly due to the 
variation in the silk thread tested, I adopted as the 
maximum breaking point of very fine threads double, 8 x 
7 deniers to 56 gi-ams; the minimum fine as per following 
table. All very fine threads then are based on a 7 denier 
double or 7 X 4 X 2 = 56 Grams. 



10/13 den. 
11/13 den, 
U/U den. 
13/15 den. 
14/16 den. 
1,S/17 den. 
16/18 den. 
lS/20 den. 
20/23 den. : 
22/24 den. 
24/26 den. 
26/28 den. 
2S/30 den. : 



: Avg. 11 ■ 

: Avg. 12 ■ 

: Avg. 13 - 

: Avg. 14 

: Avg. 15 ■ 

= Avg. 16 

: Avg. 17 ■ 

: Avg. 19 - 

: Avg. 21 ■ 

: Avg. 23 - 

: Avg. 25 - 

: Avg. 27 - 

: Avg. 29 - 



33% 


= 


7.36 den 


x4x2 


— 


.58.85 call 


59 Grams. 


33% 


= 


8 den. 


x4 X 2 


zz 


64 call 


fr4 Grams. 


33% 


=r 


8.71 den. 


x4x 2 


zz 


69.5S call 


70 Grams. 


33% 


=: 


9.38 den 


x4 x2 


=: 


75.0-1 call 


75 Grams. 


33% 


:= 


10 den. 


x4x 2 


:= 


80 call 


80 Grams. 


337o 


= 


10.72 den 


x4x 2 


zzi 


85.76 call 


86 Grams. 


33% 


=z 


11.39 den. 


x4x 2 


zzz 


91.12 call 


91 Grams. 


33% 


z= 


12.73 den. 


x4x2 


= 


101.84 call 


102 Grams. 


33% 


zz 


14 den. 


X 4x 2 


1= 


112 call 


112 Grams. 


33% 


= 


15.41 den. 


X 4 X 2 


i^ 


123.2S call 


124 Grams. 


33% 


z= 


16.75 den. 


x4 X 2 


=; 


134 call 


134 Grams. 


33% 


z= 


18 den. 


x4x2 


:= 


144 call 


144 Grams. 


337o 


= 


19.43 den. 


x4x2 


= 


155.44 call 


155 Grams. 



A scale was then rigged up as per following sketch, 
which also shows method of using same: 




FIG. 2. 



and when the knot passed through at Gauge number at 
which the silk was tested it was considered a fine; this, 
however, still left the very fine subject to the judgment of 
the operator and on coarse sizes different operators showed 
different results. 

Comparisons between working results and the Gauge 
tests showed that it was necessary to fix a standard 
size for the very fine and let it represent a size that 
breaks out in throwing and in weaving in the gum, single, 
on all sizes of raw and that a positive method of determin- 
ing the very fine was necessary. This condition was met 
by calling the very fine 7 deniers and under and determin- 
ing same by their breaking strength. A silk thread break- 
ing at 4 times its average diameter, expressed, in grams, 
is considered 100 per cent, strong, therefore I set the 
breaking strength of a very fine at 4 x 7 or 28 grams on 
all sizes, the maximum breaking point of fine to be 33 
per cent, less than the average size tested. As many of 
the fine threads are only a few inches long it is impos- 
sible to use the regular length of 50 centimetres, nor would 
It be practical as it requires too much time to fasten each 
thread to the two posts of Serimeter each time a fine thread 
is found. To save time and adapt ourselves to the length 
of thread available, a series of breaking tests were con- 
ducted by passing the thread over a i/j-inch post of the 
Serimeter and drawing down on both ends of thread until 
they broke. This method showed a difference o£ 13 per 



The uncleanness of a silk thread is represented by the 
following defects: 



Slugs 

Nibs 

Bad Knots 

Waste 

Split Threads 

Bad Thows 

Corkscrews 

Hairiness 



Cocoon defects 



Reeling defects 



Slugs and nibs are made by the worm and we call them 
cocoon defects. A nib is a small slug; when they are 
about the size of two raw knots, or are oblong, then call 
them slugs; if very large call them large slugs. The 
purpose is to distinguish between the large and small 
defects and reduce their relative value accordingly. The 
rest are reeling defects and made by the reeling girl. The 
following prints show the different shapes and sizes ot 
defects named above except corkscrews and hairiness. 
Corkscrews are so well know that no illustration appears 
necessary. Rosenzweig calls them "rognose." 

Hairiness consists of small loops about 1/64 inch long, 
and because of their great number look like short hairs 
standing up on the skeins when looking across the face 
of same. This hairiness shows in the cloth wnen the loops 
appear about 30,000 to 45,000 on 300,000 yards of thread. 



They do not catch in the Gauges, if they did it would be 
very impractical to count them, even when under 30,000 
on 300,000 yards of thread. Instead of including them 
under Cleanness I penalize the quality number 1 per cent, 
for 40,000 to 60,000 and 5 per cent, when over 200,000 per 
300,000 yards. These may be counted on one section of 
the reel after a layer of silk has been reeled and increased 
to 300,000 yard basis. 

The Gauges have been condemned by critics because 
they do not catch these minute defects, also because they 
say that when the thread runs fine then the smaller 
defects are not removed as thoroughly as when the thread 
runs coarse and that a perfect instrument to measure 
Cleanness of the raw silk thread must adjust itself to the 
variation of the silk thread. Instead of being a fault I 
find it a distinct advantage. The very worst silk has 
over a million defects per x yards (300,000). To attempt 
to count these would be impracticable, besides what benefit 
would be gained by the knowledge if many thousand of 
them do not show in the cloth. In counting defects on 
mirrors no two inspectors would give the same results 
as the one having the keenest sight would find more 
defects than the one of duller vision. The thread is 
run through the Gauges at the average size of the thread 
tested which, for example, we will take as 14 deniers; 
let us now suppose that the thread becomes 10 deniers; 
theoretically it appears that it will not clean the thread 
as thoroughly as it did when the thread was running 
through at 14 deniers, but we must not forget that the 
decrease in diameter is not in proportion to the denier 
count or as 14:10 but in proportion to the area of a cross 
section which in turn is in proportion to the square of 
the diameter. 

10 deniers = 0.00183 inches 

14 deniers = 0.00217 inches 
or as we see a 10 denier is but 15 per cent, less in diameter 
than a 14 denier silk. 

Let us look at it another way: if we cut a thread in two 
and look at a cross section we see that as it increases 
in size it spreads out in all directions thus 




and when it goes through the Gauges it exposes but two 
sides to the Gauge and in addition to that is the flatten- 
ing effect on the thread as it passes through at high 
speed. 

It is quite evident that what we want to know is the 
relative number of objectionable defects that are on the 
thread; their size governs this exclusively; therefore, no 
matter on what size thread they appear the only thing we 
want to know is, are they large enough to be classed 
as objectionable. How are we to determine this? By the 
sense of vision the result varies with the inspectors. A 
more definite means is therefore necessary, which has 
been found in the Gauges. These are set to a standard size 
according to the diameter of raw silk as found by Rosenz- 
weig and given in Serivalor, which are as follows: 
Deniers Microns Inches Deniers Microns Inches 

8 42 0.00165 32 84 0.00328 

9 44 0.00174 33 85 0.00333 

10 47 0.00183 34 86 0.00338 

11 49 0.00192 35 87 0.00343 

12 51 0.00201 36 89 0.00350 

13 53 0.00209 37 90 0.00355 

14 55 0.00217 38 91 0.00359 

15 57 0.00225 39 92 0.00362 

16 59 0.00232 40 93 0.00366 

17 61 0.00239 41 94 0.00370 

18 63 0.00246 42 95 0.00374 

19 64 0.00253 43 96 0.00378 

20 66 0.00259 44 98 0.00386 

21 68 0.00267 45 99 0.00390 

22 70 0.00272 46 100 0.00394 

23 71 0.00278 47 101 0.00401 

24 73 0.00284 48 102 0.00402 

25 74 0.00290 49 103 0.00405 

26 76 0.00296 50 105 0.00414 

27 77 0.00301 51 106 0.00418 

28 79 0.00307 52 107 0.00422 

29 80 0.00312 53 108 0.00425 

30 81 0.00317 54 109 0.00429 

31 83 0.00323 



One Micron is .001 millimeter or 0.0000394 Inches. 
One Millimeter equal 0.03937 inches. 

The Gauge appears very simple, but here is one con- 
dition you must not overlook, and that is that the blades 
of the cleaner must be y., inch thick so the long soft 
slugs do not wriggle through the cleaners; the second 
difficulty is that as the difference between a 13 denier and 
14 denier silk is only .00008 inch, it takes an extremely 
accurate cleaner and that it is impossible to set it to each 
size with an ordinary feeler blade and that feeler blades 
cannot be manufactured so fine. This problem has, how- 
ever, been solved by the author with the instrument known 
as the Silk Gauge, which is 2 inches wide, 6y„ inches long, 
and has a range of from 8 to 30 deniers andis ground to 
an accuracy of one ten-thousandth part of an inch. Experi- 
ments show that it is unnecessary with the Gauge to put 
any tension on the thread, but as all fine threads are 
accompanied by a defect larger than the average size, they 
break down and are recorded. 

This method is to provide a mechanical inspection test to 
substitute the inspection of mirrors and overcome the confu- 
sion due to difference in vision and judgment of various in- 
spectors in different parts of the world. Nothing is left to 
the judgment of the operator, it is wholly automatic in its 
operations. 

The Amount of Silk Required to Get Constant 
Results, Duplicate Tests and Represent the Lot 

Twenty skeins selected from different books of the bale 
have been found to represent the bale; when less than that 
is taken the results are reliable if the rest of the bale is 
like the sample, but to get the average condition and 
detect variation, 20 skeins are necessary to a bale. Of 
course you can fool this by putting in a number of books 
of very bad silk, but for this the tester must be on guard 
and when one skein runs very much worse than the others 
then another set of 20 skeins must be taken from the 
books that have been omitted in the first selection. To 
represent the lot two tests out of five, three out of ten 
and four out of twenty bales are necessary under present 
conditions to get the average of a lot. When the run 
of the bales are known then one test will be sufficient. 

The fewer the defects the more silk is required to get 
constant results as the defects are further apart and 
consequently a sufficient amount of thread must be used 
to permit these to average up: the closer the defects the 
less amount of thread is required. The result of several 
thousand tests and comparative working results show 
that when the total number of defects besides raw knots, 
fine and coarse threads equal 150, then the test can be 
stopped and the result increased to 300,000 yards by multi- 
plying by the following rule: 

20 bobbins 500 yds. ea, total 10,000 yds.x30 =300,000 yds. 
20 bobbins 1000 yds. ea. total 20,000 yds.xl5 =300,000 yds. 
20 bobbins 2000 yds. ea. total 40,000 yds.x 7yo=300,000 yds. 
20 bobbins 3000 yds. ea. total 60,000 yds.x 5 '=300,000 yds. 

Care must be taken that each test represents the 20 
skeins. As the Gauge Reel is only equipped with 10 ends 
change bobbins when test is half finished. 

Gauges 

The Gauges are made of a high grade tool steel, grad- 
uated, tempered, and then ground absolutely true. The 
fineness of the Gauges is such that the sprains of the 
metal must be considered and time allowed for this action 
to subside. (I have had a poor set warp .004 inch out 
of true during a cold spell where the proper metal was 
not used.) 

The first Gauges were made with blades % inch wide, 
but it was found that there was difficulty in setting them, 
as they sprung in setting, and when thus set they opened 
up on the machine. To overcome this they were made with 
blades % inch wide and later 1 inch wide, which solved 
the trouble. 

Method of Setting Gauges 

According to Rosenzweig, the diameter of raw silk of 
12 deniers is .00201 inch and 27 deniers is .00301 inch; 
the nearest we can get to .002 inch is 12 deniers and .003 
inch is 27 deniers, which are the setting points. It is 
impossible to measure the diameter of a silk thread with a 
Micrometer Caliper, as the thread yields or flattens out 
more or less under the pressure of the Micrometer Caliper. 
On account of this flattening out and the great variation 
on silk of the same size, no correction can be determined 



upon. The only way we can correctly set the Gauges so 
that the slot in the Gauges corresponds to the outside 
diameter of the silk thread is by feel and to make this 
as near uniform as possible it was found necessary to 
use weights. It also was found that by using a feeler 
blade y„ inch wide the same feel could not be had at the 
lowest point of the Gauge as at the high and also that the 
measurement was so sensitive that in getting the feel, 
the Gauges, when made with but i/, inch blades, were 
opened up. To avoid these errors the feeler blades were 
then made but 3/32 inch wide and weighted as fol- 
lows: 

.002 weight 14 grams 

.003 weight 17 grams 

The ordinary feeler blades bought on the open market 
are not accurate enough for this work and they must be 
selected with a Micrometer Caliper measuring by ten- 
thousandth part of an inch. (No. 75 Micrometer Caliper 
made by Brown & Sharpe Manufacturing Company is used 
by the inventor of the Gauges.) 

The Gauges are shipped properly set, but if by a mishap 
they require resetting, tighten up the rear bolt dead tight, 
then tighten up the front bolt until the .002 feeler blade 
holds fast at 12 deniers and the .003 feeler blade at 27 
deniers. Draw the feeler up and down in slot until it 
holds its own weight. First clean out the slot very care- 
fully, getting rid of every particle of dust — remember you 
are working on a very fine measurement. A good grade 
of tissue paper I find the best for the purpose. Be careful 
it does not break oft' and stick fast in the Gauges. 

Graduation 

The graduations are an arbitrary measurement and 
based on 15 equal subdivisions between 12 and 27 deniers. 
The Gauges were made 6i/o inches long so as to make the 
graduations to cover from 8 to 30 deniers. 

Operating Gauge Test 
Speed of Reel 

The speed of the takeup of the Reel Fly is to be 250 
yards per minute. 

Care of Gauges 

The Gauges must be kept absolutely clean and free from 
rust or scum. Oil daily with a good quality of spindle 
or clock oil, making sure that the oil has run between the 
two faces of the Gauge blades. Do not permit the Gauges 
to become choked up with waste, as it is possible to force 
open the Gauges slightly if waste is wedged in tightly. 
When the Gauges get choked up with silk thread then use 
a 1.5 feeler blade to push or pick it out. Put the blade 
in back of the place you desire to clean out and move it 
towards the front or open part of Gauge. Do not use a 
bent feeler blade that scratches the Gauge. 

Method of Making Tests 

First — Wind from unsoaked silk about 3,500 yards from 
each of 20 skeins on 20 bobbins, 10 from the under side of 
skein and 10 from the regular side. Take every other 
bobbin and threaden up on the Gauge Reel. Shift the 
Gauges so they all run at the average size of thread. The 
operator must constantly watch the threads and stop the 
reel as soon as a break occurs so as to get the yardage 
uniform. A black mirror should be placed in back of the 
threads so as to see the threads plainly. 

Cohesion 

Cohesion is the term applied by Rosenzweig in Seri- 
valor to the force that causes the two cocoon filaments 
to stick together as one compact thread. In physics, 
cohesion is considered as the mutual attraction of the 
particles of a solid for one another, and is measured by 
the amount of force which must be applied in order to 
overcome it. The term cohesion is generally applied to 
the mutual attraction of particles of the same substance; 
adhesion to that of different substances. We thus see then 
that the term is well applied. 

The silken fibre (sericin and fibroin) consists of two 
filaments (bavelle, brin) which when issued by the worm 
through its spinneret are laid side by side and agglutinated 
together as one cocoon fibre. The force of this agglutina- 
tion we call Cohesion. The threads that are agglutinated 
very tightly are dense and firm and resist opening a long 
time; these we call a very good Cohesion; those that are 
loosely agglutinated and open very readily we call very 
poor Cohesion. 

The f.ict that the cocoon fibres consist of two filaments 



enables us to measure the Cohesion of the cocoon fibre, 
but as we use only the reeled thread we are not interested 
commercially in the Cohesion of the cocoon fibre except 
as it relates to that of the reeled thread and its relative 
value in classifying the physical qualities of raw silk. 

My experiments on raw silk thread reeled with a long, 
medium and short croisure or twist indicate that Cohesion 
i.s more dependent on the cohesiveness of the sericin than 
the length of twist in reeling, yet a good twist is essential 
and must be long enough to knead the thread well together 
so that it will be well agglutinated and yield a thread with 
a good Cohesion. 

Further observations show first, the importance of hav- 
ing cocoons uniform in quality second, that Lustre is co- 
related to Cohesion; third, that 90 per cent, of tests show 
Tenacity and Cohesion practically alike in their relative 
value. 

Investigations are under way to show reasons why 10 per 
cent, of tests show a variation in the relative value of 
Cohesion and Tenacity of about 10 per cent.; whether 
it is due to an en-or in the method of making the test, 
relative value of Cohesion and Tenacity tables, or an 
actual variation in the relative value of these two named 
qualities. 

All reelers agree that to produce a thread with a high 
Cohesion requires a high grade seed, close attention in 
sericulture, careful and skilled reeling. It will be observed 
that since the requirements of a thread with a high Cohe- 
sion enhances its value, if in the classification of raw 
silk we base its physical qualities on Cohesion, then we 
have a basis that presents a relation true to its real cost to 
produce and is therefore worthy of your serious con- 
sideration. 

In weaving single thread in the gum the cocoon fibres 
constituting the thread must be well agglutinated; if one 
or more fibres are loosely gummed together then when the 
threads rub against each other as the shed opens and closes 
or the harness or reed rubs the thread, then these loosely 
agglutinated threads open, split off one or more fibres and 
frequently break. 

In skein dye we find that silk with a very poor Cohesion 
has a tendency to split up in dyeing and cause Lousiness, 
also that when the sericin is boiled off it produces a skein 
very wooly or exceedingly loopy in appearance. In spinning 
Organzine with a thread of low Cohesion sometimes one 
or more cocoon fibres split off, run a band on bobbin, 
cause excessive breaks, labor cost and waste. 

Measurement of Cohesion 

Even though in the loom we find that it is the friction 
of the harness and reed on the thread and that of the 
thread upon itself as the shed opens and closes that causes 
the thread to open and split off, yet extensive experiments 
show that we cannot measure Cohesion by friction because 
of the rough character of some silk threads due, I am 
told, to reeling the thread from cocoons that have been 
softened in water containing sand and limestone salts. 
Also there are threads which are so tightly agglutinated 
that they rub through before opening; still others are so 
smooth and silky that they resist opening by friction a long 
time and give very untrue relative results when compared 
with actual working qualities. 

The method of testing resorted to commonly is to sep- 
arate the fibres of the thread between the thumb and fore- 
finger, noting such results as this crude procedure may 
make manifest, the personal equation rendering the thumb 
and forefinger test, at best, no more than a means for ar- 
riving at approximate results, which, although better than 
nothing, are not capable of tabulation and comparison when 
secured by the efforts of different operators, or even by 
the efforts of the same operator, working at different 
times or under different conditions. The sericin or gum or 
raw silk not only possesses various degrees of adhesive- 
ness, hut, also, frequently contains minute particles of 
foreign matter, such as sand or limestone, which roughens 
the sericin to such an extent that conclusive results as to 
cohesion cannot be attained by a mere friction test. 

In view of the foregoing, it is the object of this invention 
to provide a simple but efficient machine whereby cohesion 
tests on silk thread may be carried out readily, and 
whereby the results of the tests will be of such a con- 
clusive and uniform natm'e that they may be compared, 
thereby producing a standard for cohesion tests. 

Experiments covering several years show that Cohesion 
can be measured by rolling the thread under pressure. 
I then followed the rule of physicists and measured its 
relative order, fixed an arbitrary scale of relative values. 
The number of strokes required to roll open the thread 
constitutes the unit of Cohesion. The test is made on 200 



threads, 10 threads from eacli of 20 skeins. See Fig. 1 
for Cohesion machine. Reeled threads requiring but 286 
stroltes to open showed an open condition of the thread 
under a magnification of about 150 diameters lilve Fig. 3. 

509 strolves see Pig. 4 

827 strokes see Fig. 5 
1612 strokes see Fig. 6 
It appears that when the tlireads have a Cohesion over 
800 strokes then they are so tightly agglutinated that 
no voids or openings appear. 




i-k;s. j. 4, 5, 0. 

Rules for Operating Cohesion Machine 
Speed 

The speed is to be 108 strokes ( full stroke back and 
forth) per minute. Five strokes more or less will not 
affect the results. 

Oiling 

The roller must be kept oiled at its V shaped bearing. 
Care must be taken not to get oil on roll. It should spin 
around freely when moved with the finger. In the worm 
gear casing use a mixture of 50-50 cylinder and machine 
oil; keep it about % full. Oil slide and reciprocating 
motion about once a week. 

Adjusting Roll 

The roll must be level and roll evenly on the mirror; 
care must be taken in adjusting it so as not to bind the 
roller and retard its movement. This can be tested by 
moving the roller with the finger and seeing if it spins 
around freely. The roller must bear uniformly on card 
the full length of stroke and full width of card. This can 
be tested by running the machine on a blank card and 
observing whether the polished place on card, when rolled. 
Is of the same brightness. Use paper liners under card 
carrier lever. 

Care of Roller 

It is absolutely necessary that the roller be kept free 
from dust, scum, rust, oil, perspiration and free moisture. 
Before using the machine clean off roller with a piece 
of chalk and wipe off with a dry rag. 

Black Cards or Mirrors 

Use a good quality of hard black cardboard and avoid 
using a grade that varies very much in thickness or in 
its hardness. Soft cardboard retards the opening ofi 
threads about 2 to 3 per cent. Use grade like sample 
shipped with machine. 

Preparation of Mirrors 

Use an ordinary sizing reel upon which reel, with a 
spacing of about 60 threads to the inch, 10 threads from 
each of 5 skeins or a total of 50 threads to a card. Place 
the mirror under the threads, then paste a gummed label 
on each end of mirror, gluing down the threads firmly 
onto the mirror. Make 4 cards for each test or 200 threads 
all told. 

Operation of Cohesion Test 

Fasten one mirror firmly on each Cohesion machine, start 
same and then place threads on roller. If the thread 
opens up with two or three scratches with the nail of 
thumb then the card should be examined after the first 
hundred strokes and every 50 strokes thereafter until all 
of the threads are opened the full length of the stroke. 
If it takes 6 to 9 scratches to open the thread, then the 
machines may be run about 1000 strokes before the cards 



need be examined. When the threads once start to open 
then the card should be examined every 50 strokes. 

To examine the threads swing back mirror carrier on 
rest, remove mirror, bend same so as to slacken the threads, 
push in a Spatula and bend up against threads and see 
if all threads are opened the full length of stroke. If not, 
replace the mirror and continue the test for 50 or more 
strokes until all the threads are opened the full length 
of stroke. The number of strokes required to open all 
the threads fully is the unit of Cohesion for that mirror. 
The unit of Cohesion for the test is the average of the 
four cards representing 200 threads. 

Note that we use the maximum of each mirror, not the 
average, but as we use 4 cards the average is obtained 
as the unit of Cohesion. To take the average of each 
card requires more time to make a test and a different 
table must be used. The relative value would not be any 
different. 

Air Conditions 

The test should be conducted at a relative humidity of 
from 65 to 70 per cent, at about 70 to 75 deg. F. No test 
should be made when humidity is over 75 per cent, or 
under 50 per cent. The lagging effect of a silk thread is 
such that if the mirrors are put in a small box with 65 to 
75 per cent, humidity for one hour then they may be 
tested under any reasonable temperature without any ap- 
preciable difference. 

Starting New Machine 

In starting a new machine rub roller with chalk and 
run it on a mirror without threads about 4 hours so as to 
remove any gi-it or corrosion that might have accumulated 
on roller in transit. 

Cohesion Table 

Based on the maximum average of 4 cards of 50 threads 
each on unsoaked silk. 

Per 
Strokes Cent. Classification Application 



2200 


100 






2100 


99 


Extra Good Cohesion 


Very Good for Weav- 


2050 


98 




ing in gum single 


2000 


97 


Extra Good Lustre 


Very Good Organ 


1950 


96 






1900 


95 






1850 


94 


Very Good Cohesion 


Good foi Weaving in 
gum single 


1800 


93 


Very Good Lustre 


Very Good Organ 


1750 


92 






1700 


91 






1650 


90 


Good Cohesion 


Good for Weaving 


1600 


89 




gum single 


1550 


88 


Good Lustre 


Good Tram 


1500 


87 






1450 


86 






1400 


85 


Fair Cohesion 


Fair Organ 


1350 


84 






1300 


83 


Fair Lustre 


Good Tram 


1250 


82 






1200 


81 






1150 


80 


Fair Cohesion 


Fair Organ 


1100 


79 






1050 


78 


Fair Lustre 


Good Tram 


1000 


77 






950 


76 






900 


75 


Only Fair Cohesion 


Poor Organ 


850 


74 






800 


73 


Only Fair Lustre 


Fair Tram has a ten- 


750 


72 




dency to become 


700 


71 




wooly 


650 


70 


Poor Cohesion 


Very Poor for Organ 


600 


69 






550 


68 


Poor Lustre 


Boil off carefully 


500 


67 






450 


66 






400 


65 


Very Poor Cohesion 


Has a tendency to get 


350 


64 




lousy and woolly 


300 


63 






250 


62 


Very Poor Lustre 


Very Poor Tram. 


200 


61 






150 


60 







Note: Cohesion over 2200 strokes usually is very high 
in lustre and hand. 

Winding Test 

A true winding test can only be made by counting the 
breaks on the whole skein from start to finish. As Japan 



skeins at 1G7 thread speed run from four to five liours, it 
talves too long a time to malce a test on tlie wtiole skein and 
a shorter test becomes necessary. After working several 
methods for a number of years I found that any short 
method, that would be true to the breaks on the whole 
skein within a maximum variation of fifteen per cent, would 
be close enough for a winding test. I then made a series 
of 20 tests on Japan, single and double skeins. Italians, 
Chinas and Cantons, and from this series found the fol- 
lowing method came within the 15 per cent, ma.ximum 
limit; the series did not vary more than 5 per cent. 

Air Condition — Temperature 70 to 75 per cent, at 70 to 
75 per cent. Relative Humidity. 

First — Select 20 skeins from one bale. We must make 
our selection from original packages, that is one bale. 
Whilst most of us buy in five and ten bale lots, the bales 
are not always alike. A bale, however, generally represents 
the product of one filature which is not always true of a 
five or ten bale lot. I have found 20 skeins necessary to 
represent the average conditions of a bale and give results 
equal to tests made on 60 skeins. I found 10 skein tests 
varying too much. „ , ^ 

Kub (jums 

Gums or reel markings must be rubbed out before wind- 
ing. On hard gums they can be daubea with a warm 
emulsion which softens the gums so they can be thoroughly 

removed. oi • ■ t-« i • 

J>keining or Uandering 

Skeins up 10 skeins with under side up, the other 10 
regular. „ , 

Speed 

Rated when test is half completed. 

On unsoaked silk with Gums 120 Thread (Yards per 
minute). On unsoaked silk without Gums and soaked silk 
ISO Thread (Yards per minute). 

Swifts 

Twelve stick. Pin Hub unweighted. 

Method of Making Test 

Make a starting run of fifteen minutes, don't count 
breaks, then wind 300,iiOO yards counting breaks. 

At 120 thread speed. Run 125 minutes. 

At 180 thread speed. Run 84 minutes. 
The sum of all the breaks on the 300,000 yards equals wind- 
ing count. 

(Foi- waste and cost tables add eight to count for first end tied 
np wliicli is the equivalent uf tlic twenty first ends tied up on tlie 
^^(ill.COO yards wound.) 

The breaks the first half hour are very excessive at times. 
Creak tests made only on the first hour winding sometimes 
vary as much as 100 per cent. When making a starting 



WINDING TEST SHEET FORM NO. I 



la<A ■ Dal^; 


Natne 


Stock & Grade 




No Ends Tested 


Thread Speed 


Starting Run Startec 
Time: 

Winding Test Startec 


Stopped " Time 
Stopped Time 


Remarks 




i'.M,-t ( ,( Tllr ■ \U::A-. 


KItKAK--. W lu.in- T.-I 



other Defects 



First End 

Double Skein 

Count Total 



run of but six minutes you still get too many breaks; tests 
covering many years show that fifteen minutes for a start- 
ing run are required to give results representing the 
actual conditions of bale. 

To change the count to breaks per skein on 14/16 denier 
size divide by six. 



1 

QUALITY TEST FORM NO. 3 

Tag DatP -^ Name 


Gauge Nufnlx-r 


No. Endi> freted Speed 
Test Started St'ijDped . 1 f-st Tunc 


^'^^ X/ .X-' .-^V /// 
Coarse .'/ / 


SL'MMARY 


ACniAL 


we.we TABUS 


Waste ,\, , :, 




Small Raw Knots >>, -s^ -^ --^ ,s -s, 

-*^ -.-v .7^ -V. >. -:^ -^^ .-^ ^ -.. 






-***. -x ■■-s •% -".^ '*> A •>, r^ ->^ V 






Ba<i Knot? S., N^ s^ ^s, s, X. ■*-- 

Winding Knots 




i -threads 




Nib3 

Slugs \ •/, .>K -X -^ >, >, .^. 






Locips 

Split Ends V 

Corkscifw 








Bod Throw3 ^ 
[n I>>ul>t ; 


/;.'- 


U ^ if.^J' 





w 



Cfiunt 

18/20 

21/22 

23/24 

25/26 

27/28 

29/30 

31/32 

33/34 

35/36 

37/38 

39/42 

43/46 

47/50 

51/54 

55/58 

59/62 

63/66 

67/70 

71/74 

75/78 

79/82 

83/86 

87/90 

91/94 

95/98 

99/102 

103/106 

107/110 

111/114 

115/118 

119/130 

131/140 

141/150 

151/160 

161/170 

171/180 

181/190 

191/200 

201/210 



No. 

.Swifts 

Uini 

114 

110 
105 
100 

94 

90 

86 

82 

78 

75 

72 

66 

62 

58 

54 

52 

50 

47 

44 

42 

40 

39 

37 

36 

35 

33 

32 

31 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

24 

23 

22 

20 

19 



inding Table 

Waste 13/15 Den 



Amer. 

Keel 

0.30% 

0.33 
0.36 
0.39 
0.42 
0.45 
0.48 
0.51 
0.54 
0.57 
0.63 
0.69 
0.75 
0.81 
0.87 
0.93 
0.99 
1.05 
1.11 
1.17 
1.23 
1.29 
1.35 
1.41 
1.47 
1.53 
1.59 
1.65 
1.68 
1.74 
1.87 
1.92 
2.17 
2.32 
2.47 
2.62 
2.77 
2.92 

3.07 



St-(."anton 
Reels 



Class 

Very well 



1.80% 

1.84 

1.95 

2.06 

2.15 

2.24 

2.33 

2 42 

2.50 

2.59 

2.86 

3.08 

3.33 

3.52 

3.74 

3.96 

4.18 

4.20 

4.50 



Very well 

Well 

Well 

Well 

Well 

Well 

Fair 

Fair 

Fair 

Fair 

Only fair 

Only fair 

Only fair 

Poor 

Poor 
Poor 
Poor 

Very poor 
Very poor 
Very poor 
Well for Canton 
Well for Canton 
Well for Canton 
Fair for Canton 
Fair for Canton 
Fair for Canton 
Fair for Canton 
Poor for Canton 
Poor for Canton 
Poor for Canton 
Poor for Canton 
Very poor for 
Canton 



10 



Evenness Table 

As tlie relative value of each defect varies, it is necessary 

to reduce them all to a common value, which is done in 
the following manner: 

Evenness. — Very fine on 11/16 denier multiply by 4 

Very fine on 17/22 denier multiply by 5 

Very fine on 23/30 denier multiply by 6 
Fine. — AH sizes multiply by 1. 
Coarse. — All sizes multiply by 4. 

Average Yokohama Classification 

Three per cent, under Best 

Class 11/16 Den. 17/22 Den. 23/28 Den. % 

100 

9 4 3 99 

Very 18 8 6 98 

Good 27 12 9 97 

36 16 12 96 

45 20 15 95 

54 24 18 94 

63 28 21 93 

Good 72 32 24 92 

81 36 27 91 

90 40 30 90 

99 44 33 89 

108 48 36 88 

Fair 117 52 39 87 

126 56 42 86 

135 60 45 85 

144 64 48 84 

Only . 153 68 51 83 

Fair 162 72 54 82 

171 76 57 81 

180 80 60 80 

189 84 63 79 

198 88 66 78 

207 92 69 77 

Poor 216 96 72 76 

225 100 75 75 

234 104 78 74 

243 108 81 73 

252 112 84 72 

270 120 90 71 

288 128 96 70 

306 136 102 69 

324 144 108 68 

342 152 114 67 

360 160 120 66 

378 168 126 65 

396 176 132 64 

414 184 138 63 

432 192 144 62 

450 200 150 61 

468 208 156 60 

486 216 162 59 

504 224 168 58 

522 232 174 57 

540 240 180 56 

558 248 186 55 

576 256 192 54 

594 264 198 53 

612 272 204 52 

630 280 210 51 

Exceedingly 648 288 216 50 

Poor 666 296 222 49 

684 304 228 48 

702 312 234 47 

720 320 240 46 

738 328 246 45 

756 336 252 44 

774 344 258 43 

792 352 264 42 

810 360 270 41 

828 368 276 40 

Cleanness Table 

Cleanness. These defects are all penalized according to 
their size and seriousness. All sizes are alike but table of 
common values different. 

Penalties for Cleanness 

Waste X 1 

Nibs X 1/20 

Very large slugs x 1 

Slugs X 1/2 

Bad throws x 1 

Very long knots x 1 

Long knots x 1/2 

Loops X 1/20 

Very large loops x 1/20 

Corkscrews x 1/20 



The tables on evenness and cleanness are made up for 
common values. 

Average Yokohama Classification Three Per Cent. 





Under Best 






Class 


11/16 Den. 


17/22 Den. 


23/28 Den. 


% 













100 




15 


11 


8 


99 


Very 


30 


22 


16 


98 
97 


Good 


45 


33 


24 




60 


44 


32 


96 




75 


55 


40 


95 




90 


66 


48 


94 




105 


77 


56 


93 


Good 


120 


88 


64 


92 




135 


99 


72 


91 




150 


110 


80 


90 




165 


121 


88 


89 




180 


132 


96 


88 


Pair 


195 


143 


104 


87 




210 


154 


112 


86 




225 


165 


120 


85 




240 


176 


128 


84 




255 


187 


136 


83 


Only 


270 


198 


144 


82 


Fair 


285 


209 


152 


81 




300 


220 


160 


80 




315 


231 


168 


79 




330 


242 


176 


78 




345 


353 


184 


77 


Poor 


360 


264 


192 


76 




375 


275 


200 


75 




390 


286 


208 


74 




405 


297 


216 


73 




420 


308 


224 


72 




442 


323 


236 


71 




464 


338 


248 


70 




486 


353 


260 


69 




508 


368 


272 


68 




530 


383 


284 


67 




552 


398 


296 


66 




574 


413 


308 


65 




596 


428 


320 


64 




618 


443 


332 


63 




640 


458 


344 


62 




662 


473 


356 


61 




684 


488 


368 


60 




706 


503 


380 


59 




728 


518 


392 


58 




750 


533 


404 


57 




772 


548 


416 


56 




794 


563 


428 


55 




816 


578 


440 


54 




838 


593 


452 


53 




860 


608 


464 


52 




882 


623 


476 


51 


Exceedingly 


904 


638 


488 


50 


Poor 


926 


653 


500 


49 




948 


668 


512 


48 




970 


683 


524 


47 




992 


698 


536 


46 




1014 


713 


548 


45 




1036 


728 


560 


44 




1058 


743 


572 


43 




1080 


758 


584 


42 




1102 


773 


596 


41 




1124 


788 


608 


40 



Tenacity Test 

Relative Humidity should be maintained between sixty- 
five to seventy per cent, at a temperature of seventy to 
seventy-five degrees F. 

Select twenty skeins from different parts of a bale and 
reel 22y„ meters from each of the twenty skeins, making a 
full length sizing skein of 450 meters. Weight this care- 
fully in deniers and use it as the average size of thread. 
Cut this skein in two and draw out thirty threads from 
different parts of the skeins, making the Tenacity Test on 
a standard Serimetre in the usual manner. To find the 
relative value, apply strength table or multiply the aver- 
age size by four and divide this result into the average 
tenacity, multiplied by 100, shown by test, c. g., Size 14; 
Tenacity 56; thus: 

56 X 100 

14 X 4 = — 100% 

56 

As this test is made for the physical qualities of the 
thread, not the structural, we must avoid all threads having 
structural defects in this test. 



11 



STRENGTH TENACITY TABLE 



Class 


fo 


DENIEES 




11 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 




106 


47 


51 


56 


60 


64 


68 


72 


76 


80 


84 


88 


92 


96 


100 


104 


108 


112 


116 




105 






































Very 
Good 


104 






































103 






































102 








































101 








































100 


44 


48 


52 


56 


60 


64 


68 


72 


76 


80 


84 


88 


92 


96 


100 


104 


108 


112 




99 








































98 








































S7 








































95 








































93 


41 


45 


49 


53 


57 


61 


65 


67 


71 


75 


79 


82 


86 


90 


94 


98 


101 


105 




92 






































Good 


91 








































89 








































87 








































86 


39 


42 


45 


49 


53 


57 


61 


63 


67 


70 


74 


77 


81 


84 


88 


91 


94 


98 




8b 








































84 






































Pair 


83 








































81 








































80 


35 


38 


41 


44 


48 


52 


56 


59 


62 


65 


69 


72 


75 


78 


82 


86 


88 


91 


Only- 
Pair 


7^ 






































77 








































76 








































74 








































73 


33 


36 


39 


42 


45 


48 


51 


54 


57 


60 


63 


66 


69 


72 


75 


78 


81 


84 




71 








































70 






































Pnnr 


69 








































67 








































66 


29 


32 


34 


37 


40 


43 


46 


49 


52 


55 


58 


60 


63 


67 


69 


71 


74 


77 




65 






































Very 
Poor 


64 






































63 






































61 








































60 


27 


30 


32 


35 


37 


40 


42 


45 


47 


50 


53 


55 


58 


60 


62 


65 


67 


70 



12 



Raw Silk Classification 

Altoona. pa. Feh. 28th, t9i 9 
LOT NO. Sample mark Sample bale no. Sample 



STOCK Japan 



chop Sa.Tiple 



GRADE 



SIZE 14.85 



ArPLAR4NCE 



COLOR 


LUSTRE 


HAND 

OR 
TOUCH 


ILMRli-NESS 
PENALTY 


SKEIN 


GUMS 


WHlTIi 
IVORY S 
CKEAtI 


VERY EVEN 
EVEN 

FAIRLY EVEN 
UNEVEN 
VERY UNEVEN 


VERY GOOD 

GOOD X 

FAIRLY GOOD 

I'AIR 

POOR 

VLKY I'ilim.. . .. ... 


VERY SILKY 

SILKY 

NERVY X 

FTRM 

STRAWY 

SIONGY 


VERY BAD percent. 
BAD 3 per cent. 
GOOD 


ST. AMERICAN 
IMITATION 
STRAIGHT CROSSING 
OTHERS 


SOFT 
HARD 
NARROW 
BROAD 



MEASURABLE QUALITIES BASED ON 


300.000 YDS. 

MADE ON 60 . 000 YDS. 












ICW 


lO--.* 


IQte' 


-^b^ 


ItSS 


iQin 


Total 


AVERAGE 


EVENNESS 


CLEANNESS 


WINDING COUNT . 13 

GAUGE TEST 
RAW KNOTS ( "> 


f8{ 


(9) 


(11) 


(7) 


(5) 


(in 


) (501 


(2501 






VERY FINE BKNG, STRAIN UNO. 24 OR 






















KINE. 33'r UNDER AVG SIZE 


?, 


2 


4 


1 




p 


n 


f;i=- 


■^' 55 




COARSE. 33.C OVER 


















^4 




WASTE 












1 


], 


^ 




\1 p 


VERY LARGE KNOTS 


2 




,1 








.1 


1R 




1 h 


LARGE KNOTS 






















NIBS 


1 


h 


b 


;■; 


4 


ii 


p.q 


T /.!-, 




X .., 7 


VERY LARGE SLUGS 




















,\ 1 


SLUGS 


1 


1 


1 






1 


4 


P.O 




10 


VERY LARGE LOOPS 




















.\ '.„ 


LOOPS 


14 


10 


B 


ij^ 


9 


lb 


68 


340 




^ .'-•o 1 V 


SPLIT ENDS 






















BAD THROWS 




-^ 


^ 


p 


1 


3 


]? 


An 




X 1 60 


CORK SCREWS 


11 


H 


15 


17 


13 


l^) 


97 


48P 




X '..n P.C 


TOTAL DEFECTS 












1125 


TOTAL i^il, 
PER CENT. Cj ,1 


TOTAL 138 
PER CENT. QT 


TENACITY TEST GE,1MS 

COHESION TEST RAW 
COHESION TEST SOAKED 


55 
1775 










RELATIVE VALUE °0 pe, „nt 

93 
RELATIVE VALUE per cent 


QUALITY SCALE 

BASED ON 
RELATIVE VALUES 


QUALITY SUMMARr RELATIVE VALUES 

STRENGTH 95 % 
COHESION 93 % 

AVERAGE 94 % 

EVENNESS 94 % 

CLEANNESS 91 % 

COMMON VALUE ALL QUALITIES 93 % 

PENALTY % 

QUALITY No 93 % 


REMARKS: 


fc GRADE 


."f GRADE 




too 

99 

98 XXX 

97 

96 


SI 

80 Ben 
79 No 1 
78 
77 




95 

94 XX 

93 

92 


76 

75 

74 No. 1 

73 




91 
90 
89 X 

8S 
87 


71 

70 

69 I lo 

68 U 

67 

66 




86 

85 BcM No 1 
8» to 
83 Eilra 

82 


65 

64 

63 No. 2 

62 

61 

6U 


SIGNATURE A.E. 



THROWING' DYEING OE WEAVING REPORTS 



13 




liAL'GE REEL FOR DETERMIXINC E\EX.\EbS A.\U 
CLEANLINESS OF SILK 





:ii i» 



COHESION-MACHINE 
Patented April 15, 1919 




PLATE 3— SMALL RAW KNOTS. 



PLATE 4— BAD KNOTS. 



14 








(1, 




w 






15 




a 
z 
w 



o 



I 

H 

a. 




w 

H 



w 

< 
Cm 




o 
o 

^J 



< 
1-1 



16 



